Shoreline Restoration or LakeScaping - organic weed control--www.swampthing.us
Shoreline Restoration: A combination of properly designed erosion control techniques using native plant materials can provide a stable shoreline in most stream and lake shoreline conditions. In addition to the aesthetic appeal provided by a diverse mix of native species, a naturally stabilized shoreline can provide habitat for a variety of fish and wildlife species.

• Reduced Erosion and Sedimentation; Native plant buffers reduce soil erosion and sedimentation by holding soil in place with deep rooted native plants and reducing wave energy.
• Reduce Undesirable Nutrients; o Phosphorus and nitrogen feed aquatic plants and algae. Native plant buffer strips capture and absorb nutrients before they can enter waterways, reducing waterfront nuisance vegetation and algae.
• Deter Geese.; Native plant buffer strips provide a natural deterrent for geese.

Benefits of Native Plant Shoreline Buffers include:

• Enhanced Visual Appeal.
• Improved Fish and Wildlife Habitat
• Reduced Maintenance Cost

Erosion Control - Plan ahead because certain materials/projects may need a permit reviewed from your local DEQ or DNR. As part of the shoreline erosion measures American Dredge and Aquatic Weed Control Services can add rip rap stone to shorelines using are portable barges allowing us not to damage your valuable landscape. We can come in from the water and create a beautiful shoreline. Don't forget to check out all of our Dredging equipment for your dredging needs www.swampthing.us.
   

Aquatic Tips and Prevention for Aquatic Weed Growth: 

1. Dissolved Oxygen:

Use of Aquatic Herbicides and Oxygen Depletions

Treating a heavy infestation of aquatic weeds with a herbicide during the summer can cause an oxygen depletion. The rapid decomposition of a mass of aquatic weeds depletes dissolved oxygen like a bloom die-off. Also treating weed infestations with herbicides in hot weather is risky.

Dissolved oxygen is probably the single most important water quality factor that lake/pond managers need to understand. Oxygen dissolves in water at very low concentrations. Our atmosphere is 20% oxygen or 200,000 ppm but seldom will a pond have more than 10 ppm oxygen dissolved in its’ water. Dissolved oxygen concentrations below 3 ppm stress most warmwater species of fish and concentrations below 2 ppm will kill some species. Often fish that have been stressed by dissolved oxygen concentrations in the range of 2 or 3 ppm will become susceptible to disease.

Oxygen dissolves into water from two sources: the atmosphere and from plants in the water. The primary source of oxygen for a lake/pond is from microscopic algae (phytoplankton) or submerged plants. In the presence of sunlight, these produce oxygen through photosynthesis and release this oxygen into the pond water. At night and on very cloudy days, algae and submerged plants remove oxygen from the water for respiration. During daylight hours plants normally produce more oxygen than they consume, thus providing oxygen for the fish and other organisms in the pond.

Oxygen depletions are the most common cause of fish kills in lake/pond. Most oxygen deletions occur in the summer months because 1) warm water holds less dissolved oxygen than cool or cold water, and 2) because the pond’s oxygen demand is greater in warm water than in cold water. Fish kills from oxygen depletions can range from “partial” to “total”. In a partial kill the dissolved oxygen level gets low enough to suffocate sensitive species and large fish, but many small fish and hardy species survive. Most oxygen depletions cause partial fish kills; total fish kills are relatively rare in recreational ponds except for those with extremely high fish populations (>1,000 pounds/acre). The following are descriptions of the most common types of oxygen depletions.

Excessive Phytoplankton

The abundance of planktonic algae (very green water) in a pond is generally related to the amount of nutrients present in the water. Nutrients can wash into the pond from woods, pastures, fields, human activities (too much herbicide use, decomposing aquatic vegetation) in the watershed, or come from lake/pond fertilization. Generally, the more nutrients, the more planktonic algae (or other aquatic plants) will grow or bloom. Although phytoplankton is good from an abundance of natural food and oxygen producing standpoint, it can become too abundant or excessive. When phytoplankton become so abundant that water visibility is limited to less than 12 inches there is a danger of an oxygen depletion. These heavy or dense blooms use large amounts of dissolved oxygen at night and on very cloudy/overcast, windless days causing an oxygen depletion and fish kill. This problem is often a consequence of overfertilizing, overfeeding, or excessive nutrients.

Phytoplankton Die-off

Phytoplankton populations, or blooms, can grow rapidly, particularly on sunny days when the water is warm and nutrients are available. Alternatively, they can die-off quickly, especially in the spring and fall as water temperatures change rapidly with weather fronts. However, a bloom die-off can occur at any time of the year with little or no warning.

Typically during a bloom die-off, the color of the water will start to change. Leading up to a bloom die-off the pond water may have a “streaky” appearance. Streaks of brown or gray-black through the otherwise green water of the pond is an indication that the algae are starting to die. As the die-off progresses, the whole pond will turn from green to gray, brown, or clear. The pond water will typically clear after a die-off as the dead algae settle to the bottom.

Plankton die-offs cause rapid oxygen depletions for two reasons: 1) the remaining dissolved oxygen is consumed by aerobic bacteria and fungi in the process of decaying the dead algae and 2) few live phytoplankton remain to produce more oxygen. Secchi disks can be used to monitor bloom densities. Any bloom that reduces visibility in the pond to 12 inches or less may cause oxygen problems.

How to improve, slow down, prevent or stop weed growth on lakes and ponds contact www.swampthing.us

2. Plan for a Fall Clean up each year to reduce aquatic weeds
 It is important to put up leaves fences near your waterfront and pick up leaves in the fall to prevent the leaves from building up in your canal ways and lakefronts. When the leaves accumulate in your lake that is added nutrients to support thriving weed growth for next season. Also this creates added biomass to the lake floor. Your lake is slowing disappearing. If it gets too bad call us at: 1-800-649-7946 and we can dredge this area from your lake or pond. 

3. Install Weed Barriers - Weed Control Fabric and Prevention: 

The New Lake Bottom Blanket and Aqua Carpet is a Low Cost Solution to the aquatic weeds problem that has long frustrated lake front property owners. This Aquatic Weed Control System, will STOP LAKE WEEDS growth and is friendly to both the environment and the pocket book. All Weed Barrier will have weights installed into pockets. The Weed Barrier/Weed Control Fabric has weighted tubes so they direct the gases of decomposition to gas release ports in the aquatic safe fabric. Pea stone/sand will be applied afterwards covering the weed barrier, for long term weed control.  No chemicals, no expensive machinery. Ideal for swimming and docking areas and even will stop aquatic weed growth in irrigation ditches! You can see from the picture where the weeds begin and stop, because of the weed barrier used.

Aquatic Weeds can be controlled with a WEED CONTROL FABRIC like a Lake bottom blanket, Pond liner material or Aqua Carpet. Sometimes it is best to use a type of Aquatic Weed Cutter to remove the bulk of lake weeds. Like a Mechanical Weed Harvester.Lake Weed Harvesting can be very healthy for your lake and is one of the many Aquatic Services swampthing.us offers.

4. Use The correct Fertilizer on your Lawn Lakefront
Turf grasses maintained around lakes and ponds can be of great benefit to the water by providing a buffer zone for filtration of runoff materials and protection against erosion and soil sedimentation. It is critical for turf managers to maintain waterfront areas with special care to prevent the maintenance activities from negatively impacting the water which we hold in such high regard in Michigan.

A soil test is crucial on sites close to water to evaluate the phosphorus level. Phosphorus is a key contaminant of surface water and is usually the most limiting factor in aquatic weed growth. Most soils in Michigan have adequate phosphorus levels for supporting lawn turf.

Let's examine the classical Nitrogen - Phosphorus - Potassium (N-P-K) fertilizer mix for water impact. Nitrogen and phosphorous are the main factors in water quality issues with phosphorus clearly the major concern. Potassium movement and impact is minimal and not considered a problem. Nitrogen is the most soluble and the most prone to leaching. It can enhance weed and algae growth which have detrimental effects on the quality of the water. Phosphorous has the greatest impact on aquatic weed growth and is the most limiting nutrient in aquatic environments. The addition of phosphorous into these environments allows aquatic plants to take advantage of other elements. An MSU aquatic expert estimates that 1 pound of phosphorus could support 775 pounds of aquatic weed growth. Compared to nitrogen, phosphorus is not very soluble and gets bound tightly to the soil and thatch layers. It usually enters the water attached to soil as a result of erosion.

Classical fertilizer mixes of N-P-K may be hard to justify around water because the soil phosphorous levels are most likely adequate. Test the soil routinely!!! If the phosphorous level is above 20 for the Bray P-1 test, there is no need to add more phosphorous.

Use a 5-10 foot buffer strip adjacent to the water to which minimal or no fertilizer is applied.

· Use a -0- phosphorous fertilizer (20-0-10) if P levels are adequate based on a soil test.

· Approximately 1-4 pounds of nitrogen per 1000 sq. ft. per year should be adequate in most areas.

· Use the lower nitrogen amounts for shaded areas.

· Use no more than ¾ pound/1000 sq. ft. of nitrogen per application.

· At least ¼ - 1/3 of the nitrogen should be a slow release form. These include the organic forms, sulfur coated products, or IBDU.

· Don't begin spring application until 3 weeks after green is up.

· A general application sequence would be May, early July, September, and late October-early November. For lower amounts, the July application could be eliminated.

If phosphorus is essential for all plants and animals why is it bad for the Lake?
 Phosphorus is an essential nutrient in a plant or animal’s growth. It is therefore needed by the plants and organisms that live in the Lake. The problem occurs when more phosphorus than those plants and organisms need ends up in the Lake, disturbing the delicate nutrient balance that exists. Phosphorus stimulates growth, so when too much of it ends up in the lake some plants and algae grow too quickly and thickly. In turn the overabundance of these plants then absorb much of the oxygen and sunlight needed by fish and plants below the surface waters. Additionally the ultimate decomposition or these plants creates a toxic environment for other organism. As a result the Lake's normal ecosystem is dramatically altered. In addition, algal blooms are also a major deterrent to human enjoyment of the Lake as the murky green, sometimes smelly water is less than inviting for swimming, fishing and boating.

What can I do to lower Lake phosphorus levels? There are many things individuals can do to reducing phosphorus in the lake. Help reduce weed growth in a lake or pond

1. Reduce or discontinue use of pesticides.
2. Use phosphate free dishwashing and laundry detergents.
3. Clean up after your pets so that the waste does not run off directly into the lake untreated.
4. Wash your car on grass rather than pavement so the detergent can be filtered through the grass instead of running directly into the storm water system and into the lake untreated.
5. If you have a lawn, cut back on the amount of fertilizer you use. Cut only a third of the length of the grass with a sharp blade, leaving the cuttings to naturally fertilize the grass. If you must fertilize use a low phosphate fertilizer.
6. If you live near or on the Lake, landscape your property with native plants that will provide a buffer between your lawn, garden, or road so as to filter out any pollutants including phosphorus before they reach the Lake. Roots are great filters. They also keep soil (which phosphorus likes to cling onto) in place.